Barbi Brunello di Montalcino

Packaged with its dark blue label, the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino displays a very specific character that I always recognize in this wine. The house style is a callout to local winemaking tradition in which there is a slightly wild side to the cherry fruit and forest floor aromas. The oak spice is smoothly integrated into the medium-weight texture, and there is earthy spice and root at the back. The wine closes with freshness, bitter plum and rusty metal. This is a 157,000-bottle release.

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino lifts from the glass with an earth-inspired blend of crushed dried roses, cedar box and balsamic-tinged cherry. This is soft and round on the palate, with liquid violet florals and lavender giving way to ripe wild berries. The 2018 leaves a touch of fine tannins while finishing with admirable length, as a potent staining of black raspberry slowly fades. There's excellent concentration here and a balanced structure that should promote medium-term cellaring.