Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal Brut

The 2014 Cristal is another in a long line of gorgeous wines from Roederer and long-time Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon. A dazzling, vibrant Champagne, the 2014 impresses with a stunning combination of fruit density and linear energy that brings to mind a hypothetical blend of 2012 and 2008. At times, the bubbles feel totally wrapped up in waves of creamy, resonant fruit to the point the mousse is barely perceptible, especially with aeration. The flavors are bright and finely sculpted, leaning very much into the citrus, floral and mineral end of the spectrum. (AG)

This vivid Champagne shows up-front and linear definition, thanks to rapierlike acidity, with finely meshed flavors of ripe black cherry and mandarin orange fruit, raw almond, anise and cardamom spice as well as a touch of honeycomb, which all unfurl and expand on the fine, creamy palate. Sleek acidity continues through to the finish, with additional racy character provided by a streak of minerally saline and chalk, which gains momentum through the midpalate and rings out on the well-cut, lasting finish. *Top 100 Wines of 2022, Collectible* (AN)

By 2014, all of the grapes made for Cristal were being farmed biodynamically and certified organic since 2012. So alive on the nose, bursting with citrus and white fruit and floral aromas as well as some buttery toast nuances. Lemon meringue pie, summer strawberries and citrus tang on the palate - full with such a density to the texture, filling and persistent with tiny bubbles from start to finish. This has such a ‘cool’ element with minerality and a sense of tension that gives excitement and nicely offsets the more rich, round elements. Electric, clean and sharp, a thriller.

Tons of Amalfi lemon and chalky minerality here plus ripe pear and oyster shell. Quite generous and very expressive on the front- and mid-palates, but the finish is quite sleek and steely. As impressive as this is now it will grow considerably with further bottle age. A cuvee of 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay, of which a third was fermented in oak.

The 2014 Cristal is a terrific effort that transcends the vintage. Bursting from the glass with expressive aromas of ripe citrus fruit, nectarine, white flowers, freshly baked bread and subtle hints of honeycomb, it's medium to full-bodied, vinous and fleshy, with an exuberant core of fruit that's girdled by racy acids, resulting in a wine that's simultaneously chiseled and demonstrative, meaning that early appeal doesn't come at the expense of the requisite tension for long-term cellaring. Concluding with a long, aromatic and intensely chalky finish, it is a brilliant Champagne that will offer a broad drinking window. This bottle was disgorged in June 2021 with seven grams per liter dosage.