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I had a chance to revisit this wine with Robin Lail in early March of 2025 at her home on Howell Mountain alongside select vintages going back to the 2005 release. This wine has developed impressive weight and richness, underpinned by a striking saline-mineral tension and apple-skin tannins. Lime and lemon oil intermingle with crushed almonds, while saline minerality joins white flowers, tarragon, and honeysuckle, adding layers of complexity. The texture is intensely layered, showing a touch of gripping astringency from the tension, yet the weight suggests an ageing trajectory akin to the 2012. The structure is built for longevity with a pH of 3.06 and TA of 7.5. Grapes are sourced entirely from Lail's estate, Totem Vineyard, in Yountville, then fermented and aged 20 months on the lees, with bâtonnage, contributing to its weight and creamy texture, balancing the vibrant acidity. White truffle, orange blossom, and orange zest linger on the long finish—quintessential Georgia. Lail Vineyards is a partnership between fourth-generation vintner Robin Daniel Lail and her daughters, Erin and Shannon. Robin's great-granduncle was Gustave Niebaum, who founded Inglenook in 1879. Her father is John Daniel, Jr., who managed the estate until 1964, when he sold it. Maayan Koschitzky and Philippe Melka craft the Lail wines.
Consistently one of Napa Valley's finest Sauvignon Blancs since it was first produced in 2002, the trend over time has been to use barrels that have less impact and less new oak overall. The 2021 Georgia Sauvignon Blanc comes from a single three-acre, dry-farmed parcel of vines planted as Merlot in 1988 and grafted over to Sauvignon Blanc in 2006 and 2007. It's part of the same property originally planted by George Yount in 1839, the first grapes planted in Napa Valley. All barrel fermented and kept on lees for 18 months, it's a profoundly concentrated style, boasting scents of toasted oak, pear, peach, guava and pineapple on the nose. In the mouth, this medium to full-bodied wine is plush, round and expansive yet balanced, being fresh, zesty and long on the finish.
The 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Georgia is delicate, airy and nicely lifted. Gentle touches of pear, apricot, white flowers and lime all take shape in the glass. This is an especially understated vintage for the Georgia, in line with the recent norm here.