Michel Vattan Sancerre Cuvée O.P. (Limestone)

The 2023 Sancerre O-P offers a gentle, welcoming mouthful that embraces the palate. It's pared back and doesn't try too hard, which succeeds despite the difficulties of the vintage. Nectarine meets florals with a subtle note of lees-derived pastry lingering on the finish in this carefully handled wine. There's some gentle refreshment from the vintage's acidity, but it's hardly what you could call racy. The domaine is under new ownership. Pascal Joulin (he was an employee) and his daughter Lea took over the domaine in the past decade, and she's only in her mid-20s. This is a producer to watch.