Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port

The 2003 Vintage Port is a field blend aged for approximately 21 months in oak vats. It comes in with 93 grams of residual sugar. This oldie will be rereleased soon. As much as the Fladgate Group's 2003 oldies in this report all have bragging points, this is Taylor's, and the structure takes the lead for all of them. Still a wee bit tight, this is far younger than the Croft, not fully mature or at peak and classic Taylor's. The remaining tannins support the fruit perfectly, but nothing to me is better here than the flavor profile. This is a fine Taylor's, still with plenty of room to evolve and improve. It could actually use a few more years, not to tame the tannins, but to acquire more maturity. Of the three (including Croft and Fonseca), this is the winner, but the Fonseca shows better today and the Croft seems to be at peak. So, cellar this a bit more and drink the others now.

This is really hitting its stride now, with a furl of caressing black currant and plum reduction flavors leading the way, flanked by singed alder, walnut, ganache and sweet tobacco notes. Offers nice underlying tension too, thanks to fresh acidity that ripples throughout. The long finish shows terrific drive. Mouthwatering and hard to lay off now, but this still has room to grow. Drink now through 2045. (JS)

This is coming around beautifully now with dark plums, orange peel, chocolate and graphite undertones. It’s full-bodied with fine and chewy tannins and a long finish. A very fresh and elegant Taylor for this hot vintage, which slightly surprised me from the beginning. Drinkable but better in five years for me.