#34 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2023
The Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has a brilliant ruby red color, with garnet tinges as it ages. It has an intense bouquet with aromas of ripe cherries, plums and violets. It represents the perfect combination of structure and elegance: its full body and velvety tannins are balanced by its fine acidity. The wine is decidedly persistent and harmonious.
The estate was established in 1964 when Alibrando Dei, the grandfather of Caterina, purchased Bossona where he planted a vineyard (from which Dei's top wine, Vino Nobile Riserva Bossona, is made). In 1973 the Martiena property was added together with the beautiful villa which was restructured in the 1930s by the well known architect Piacentini. During the first years the grapes were sold. The family then decided to start making wine and in 1985, which was an exceptional vintage, a cellar was rented in the centre of the town of Montepulciano and the first bottles of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano were produced. In 1989 a cellar with modern equipment was built next to the villa.
Caterina has personally managed the estate since 1991 when she left her career in the theatre. She is supported by Jacopo Felici, a young and very talented agronomist/oenologist who works full time at the estate, and by the well known oenologist Paolo Caciorgna. Paolo has been consulting at Tenuta Dei since January 2014, as Nicolò D'Afflitto, consulting oenologist at Dei since 1992, now works exclusively for a large wine enterprise.
The vineyard extension is 55 hectares, divided between the zones of Martiena, Bossona, La Ciarliana and La Piaggia on the slopes of the hill of Montepulciano. The varietals grown are mainly the ones utilized in the blend of the estate's Vino Nobile: Sangiovese and Canaiolo. A small percentage of the varietals is international and go into the blend of "Sancta Catharina", a proprietary wine and another small percentage is made up of white varietals for the production of Bianco di Martiena IGT and of Vin Santo di Montepulciano DOC: Grechetto, Malvasia and Trebbiano.
All the phases of wine production now take place in the impressive new cellar entirely built in Travertino marble (from the Dei's quarries) and glass. Energy is produced by photovoltaic panels and the temperature is kept even by a geothermal system. The cellar is partly built underground. Azienda Dei is certainly a reference for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano worldwide due to the extremely high quality of the wines.
Darkly alluring, the 2020 Nobile di Montepulciano lifts from the glass with rosemary and sage, complicating dried black cherries and hints of dark chocolate. This is pure elegance, soft and enveloping, flaunting its ripe vintage fruit with a core of zesty acidity that maintains fantastic balance. A coating of fine tannins tugs at the palate with youthful poise, and a tart cranberry concentration fades. This tremendous effort from the warm vintage should not be missed. That said, the production of Cantina Dei's Nobile was down by 50% due to the conditions of the year.
Extremely perfumed and fresh with an elegant and attractive nose. Medium-bodied with ultra-fine, delicate tannins and a delicious finish. So delicious.
Supple and fluid, this red exudes cherry, loam, iron and eucalyptus flavors. Dusty tannins creep in as this evolves to the finish, where there's a lingering salty taste. Prugnolo Gentile and Canaiolo. Drink now through 2036. 10,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.
